And the plan is: different from what it was recently. Ha! As I wrote in the previous post, we were doubting whether to continue some more days in Laos - according to the original idea - or divert our ride into Thailand already. Well, you'll soon see where we went.
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View over the Mekong from the temple grounds, worth the hot and steep climb up the stairs. Such a massive water body! |
From our very comfortable stay in Champasak, it was just a short and easy ride to Pakse. So we took our time in the morning and enjoyed a good, big breakfast at the guest house. Once on the road, after about 15km, we came to a wat (temple) which we were told is nice to visit - not so much for the wat itself, but for the view over the Mekong. A steep and hot climb up many stairs indeed brought us to a wonderful view - judge for yourself!
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Admiring the view |
Still before noon we arrived in Pakse and checked in to a nice guesthouse (Nang Noi), very good and clean room, at 14USD per night really worth it. There is not that much to do in Pakse as such, but... there are quite a few good places to spoil ourselves! We started with lunch at a local restaurant, but then headed to a place recommended for its good coffee - yes, great coffee it was, and a cozy and friendly place too! After taking a little rest at the guest house during the hot afternoon, we went out again and strolled along the Mekong promenade. From there we took a tuk tuk (say these 4 words again after 10 beers) to Wat Phousalao, a temple on the hill, recommended for its beautiful sunset. We paid too much for the tuk tuk, which did not even bring us to the wat - it dropped us at the foot of the hill. So we climbed the stairs up the hill, more and steeper than the ones in the morning, then were rewarded with truly fantastic views (and a sugarcane juice).
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Along the promenade in Pakse, the Wat Phousalao is on the hill across the Mekong |
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Took a Tuk Tuk |
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At Wat Phousalao |
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A giant Buddha, also enjoying the sunset |
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Say cheese |
We walked back to town this time, no more tuk tuk, and then continued the indulgence. We found a really nice Italian restaurant, a beautiful hidden dining terrace, the food was delicious and... they had Duvel on the drinks menu! What can you do? We had a fantastic dinner and a wonderful time. It wasn't over yet; in the morning, before leaving town, we went to La Boulange, a real French bakery, where we had an incredibly tasty, freshly baked, crunchy baguette for breakfast. Y-U-M-M-Y!!!
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One of the treats: delicious baguettes at the French bakery, with a fresh orange juice and an espresso. No further comment. |
Then it was time to get going. Question was: go where? Over the previous days, we had heard many people say that the roads up north towards Savannakhet were not so nice, while the roads on the Thai side would be great for cycling, through beautiful scenery, with some national parks on the way. Also, we first had the idea to rent a motorbike in Pakse and take it for a 1 or 2 days trip into the Bolaven plateau, but we also let that plan go. On the one hand, because we wanted to ride our bicycles. On the other hand, it seems like it is very much backpacking circus; nothing against backpacking at all, it just feels so much nicer to be on the road on the bicycle and go to places where hardly any other tourists go. So, while we really liked our (short) time in Laos, we made the decision to cross the border and roll into Thailand!
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Leaving Pakse, back across the friendship bridge |
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A fisherman below on the Mekong |
Laos was nice, we liked it so much more than our first time cycling here. We still don't really understand why it was not the great experience we hoped for back then, but now for sure it did not disappoint at all. We wanted to give it a second chance, and good thing we did! Now it definitely feels like we'd love to come back again. It was a bit short - just 7 days if you include the in and out day - and surely shorter than planned. But, again, that's how it goes when tour cycling!
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Toll plaza, really!? Learned that from the French, I guess (not for cyclists, luckily) |
From Pakse to the border was a big, wide road, but traffic was not too heavy. After about 25km we just made a spontaneous stop at a wat to take a little rest, it was such a nice, peaceful place. There was quite a bit of activity, with several monks and others cleaning up, planting things, washing, ... Nice little unexpected stop. Another hour of cycling and we arrived at the border. What a chaos! We have done quite a few borders crossings, but this was funny, confusing, chaotic - especially on the Lao side. People everywhere, not clear where you should go, go into a building to get your exit stamp, get back into Laos to get your bicycle, then finally cross somewhere (where?) where they want to give you an exit stamp again. Nevertheless, despite the chaos, everything went very smoothly, we rolled on to the Thai border, got our 60 day visa stamps, and with that we arrived already in the third country of this trip!
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The wide road towards the border, with little traffic |
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A welcome stop in the shadow at the wat |
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At the Thai border, it all went very easily and smoothly |
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We saw these trucks, with parts of the pillars of wind turbines, destination Laos! I indeed saw information boards along the road, about wind energy and a wind turbine project. Surprising this is coming to Laos! |
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Once in Thailand, after the first few kms on a big (but very nice) road, we had this nice secondary road to ride on, through a beautiful forested area |
Why and how I don't really know, but again, once we entered Thailand, it was instant happiness. This country does that to us, always. We had another 25km to go, over some rolling hills with a few short climbs. The scenery was definitely nice, and after 71km we arrived at our destination for the day: Khong Chiam. We went to the guest house which was our first choice; it was full. Then we went to the second place. Full. Third place: full... They had one room still, which was booked but they thought the guests might not be coming. They tried, but could not confirm. So we went to the fourth place (a bigger hotel this time); ONE room left. We did not hesitate and take it, even though this place would normally not be our first choice. Nothing wrong with it at all, just a bigger hotel which usually we don't stay at.
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View over - again - the Mekong, towards the Two Coloured River. On the left side is Laos again. |
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Fantastic smells (especially for a hungry stomach) at this colourful market, probably there at the occasion of the cycling event. |
Seems there is a big cycling event in town, which is why nearly all accommodation is fully booked! Lucky we still found something this time...
Khong Chiam is at the confluence of 2 rivers, the Mekong and Mun rivers. The big attraction here is: The 2 Coloured River, because the water in the two rivers have a different colour, and at the confluence it gives this colour separation. Funny that this is a real tourist attraction! And finally, tomorrow: a very promising, possibly a bit challenging ride further north!
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Another view, what a beautiful spot!
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And then... what's left of our Thai style salad. Very VEERRRRYYYY spicy - Thailand level spicy again! |