Along the Mekong

It has been such wonderful riding in Isaan (that's how Northeast Thailand is called in Thailand)! We've had 3 beautiful days on the road. It's sometimes hard to explain in words and photos why it was so nice, it's the complete picture: sounds, people, views, feeling, smells, all of it together in 1 mix. Impossible to reproduce in words.

Leaving Khong Chiam in the morning, a sleepy village still at 7am, yet people are up and about doing all kinds of morning chores

It doesn't last long until the sun is high above us and sending all it warmth already...

After we left Khong Chiam a few kms, we start cycling on road 2112 for a long time. This road is roughly following the Mekong, mostly at a distance though; we didn't get to see the Mekong most of the time until much later. The cycling event, which was making Khong Chiam so busy this weekend, was also happening that morning. So, after about 15' riding, we met up with 2 groups of cyclists who were taking part in the event. They were clearly there for fun: no hurry, cozy chatting, music, ... We kept meeting the same guys several times, and it was good fun to have them on the ride. The event was a go and back ride, and after some time the elite riders - at least, that is what I assume - came racing from the other side. Good fun, cheering them on, go go go!!! After 40km, we passed the turnaround point for the event, from then onwards no more cyclists on the road unfortunately!

The front of the elite race

The road we were riding on was bordering the Pha Taem National Park. We didn't visit the national park, as it was quite a detour, and we knew we had a long ride ahead of us. But it was really beautiful to cycle on this road, with some stretches of great nature, several small and charming villages, and mostly a good (and hilly!) road - the first slightly challenging hills of this tour. There were hardly any villages, just mostly a few houses together, and by the time we found a restaurant we were starving. It was a very simple, basic restaurant which would normally not really invite to stop, but as we were hungry we still did. It did not disappoint at all! We had very tasty food in fact - khrapaw moo (basil fried pork) and som tam (papaya salad), by a super friendly woman who made sure we had the best possible food and service! Amazing what she could get done in her little kitchen - if you can even call it that. Just next door, probably by the daughter or so, there was a little coffee shop. So right after our lunch, we just moved to the next place and had a wonderful ice coffee. Life can be good, and soooo simple.

The friendly and yummy restaurant

With the coffee shop next door

Luckily there was quite a lot of shade on this road, as it was a very hot day

Upon arrival, we found these people, doing cockfights. We did not see the fights, and honestly, no need for it too.

After 82 hilly kms we came to a village with a few guesthouses, and decided to call it a day. It had been a beautiful day on the road in any case! We found a very nice, cozy, charming “homestay” - basically in the middle of nowhere. What a nice place. Only, it was hot in the tiny house in the beginning, a real sauna!!! Luckily the aircon did what it needed to do, and after a while it was OK.

Our tiny house "homestay", cozy and brand new

In the middle of nowhere, with a fantastic view over the fields

And again, our good friend the Mekong

And "ancient rain tree", very impressive and beautiful tree on the river bank

The next day continued on the same 2112 for another 15km, then we turned into an even smaller, rural road for another 15km - and that was even more fantastic. We were also lucky: we had seen beforehand on Google Maps that there was a nice little café, Goose Café, which we thought would still be closed in the early morning (this was around 8am) - but it was open! So we treated ourselves to a nice morning coffee (and ooohhh it was so good!). All geared up we continued, and once the rural road ended, we got onto a bigger road for some 40km; still not too bad, just less attractive cycling than the previous 1,5 days.

Slightly misty early morning from our terrace

Good morning Isaan!

Enjoying a wonderful coffee at the Goose Café

After those 40kms, we were on very small roads again, this time closely along the Mekong - which also means, nearly perfectly flat roads again. To top it of, we found an amazing place for lunch, at the riverside, with delicious food. Yes, this is cycling in Thailand!!! We continued cycling still a little while after lunch, and ended the day after 88km at the Mekong View Guesthouse, in a very quiet, rural area again. Time for some chilling, a little walk, dinner, and to end with some sweets from 7 Eleven (plus bread for our breakfast).

The big road, not too much traffic, and a good shoulder to ride on

We made a short stop for a cold drink and a little snack, this lovely old lady was making those offering objects from banana leaves

Delicious lunch at the riverside

Nice!

Very small rural roads along the Mekong, no traffic at all, perfect for bicycle riding

Le Mekong

A little ride towards dinner

We're at day 3 of this blog post by now. Another early morning start, 7am and we're on our way. The days have been very hot, it gets up to 34C these days. Normally, this time of the year, it's a bit cooler in Isaan, but this year so far it has not really cooled down yet. So we leave early, the morning is fresh (21-22C) but warms up very quickly. We started by riding 24km mostly along these very small and quiet back roads along the Mekong, and arrived at Phu Pha Thoep National Park by 8.30am. Time for a park visit, and a walk in the park. It was not a very long and challenging walk, but also not a walk in the park... Beautiful, unusual, and very enjoyable, even though the trail was sometimes a bit hard to find and not too well signposted.

Before leaving from Mekong View Guesthouse

A dream for cycling

Isaan landscape

Phu Pha Thoep is known for its weird and impressive rock formations

This cute doggie went with us on the entire hike, he was like showing us the way

A good laugh...

After the national park, we continued another 17km to arrive in Mukdahan - a proper "city" (still not so big though). We'll be staying here 1 day tomorrow, it's time to get some laundry done - for the first time since we left Malaysia. We've been cycling quite a few days in a row now, 7 if I'm not mistaken, not always very long distances yet it's time for a rest day: not waking up at 6am, find a nice breakfast, good coffee, visit some interesting places, get a massage, and of course good food! Cheers!