Getting started in Laos

We had been to Laos on a bicycle before, about 2 years ago. But that was just for a few days, in the south, coming from Cambodia, with only 1 real stop at Si Phan Don. It means we need to get used to a new country, find ways to get around on a bicycle and navigate, eat, drink, because from the very beginning it's clear: Laos may be very close to Thailand and share a lot of things, but it's also very different and quite a few things we were used to in Thailand won't be the case anymore. No more 7-11's on every corner of every street. No more big and small roads - only big and unsealed. Google maps does not work properly here, it had been our main way to navigate all along. And a different language too - although pretty similar.

Ahhhh traffic! Not used to that anymore...

Hm, maybe Thailand electricity was still very well organised

The roads are not as good as they were in Thailand, which we knew in advance. To be honest, they're not too bad (so far), only there are potholes, there are no shoulders to ride on, it's very dusty, a lot of garbage along the road (plastic everywhere, terrible!). When we left Vientiane this morning we were caught in the morning traffic, although to be honest, Vientiane is probably one of the only capitals in Asia or in the world where it's feasible to ride straight through the centre of the city in the morning during rush hour! Bicycles are totally ignored in Lao traffic (or at least in Vientiane traffic), it seems you're just transparent and drivers don't see you.

Leaving Vientiane in the morning

We took road 10 north today, rather than road 13 which most people take. The first 30km, as usual when leaving a big city, where not too pleasant. Afterwards, after crossing a first bridge over the Nam Ngum River, traffic became much lighter and scenery more interesting. Most cars seemed to be more careful on the road now, suddenly our bright yellow and orange jerseys seemed to work. Villages became more charming and picturesque, children enthusiastically yelling hello or sabaaidee. It's fascinating: the adults are quite reserved, only once you establish some contact they'll be very friendly. Children on the other hand are spontaneous and enthusiastic, it's quite a big and intriguing contrast.

The main roads are sealed and quite ok, but once you leave them you're immediately on dusty, bumpy unsealed roads

I mean: dusty!

After another 30km we had lunch - pho (called the same as in Vietnam), the same kind of noodle soup as we often had in Thailand - and the scenery became increasingly beautiful. Rice paddies, some with dry stumps, some with fresh green young rice, mountains in the distance, perfect weather with deep blue sky. Oh yes, riding in the zone, this is what it's meant to be!!! We stopped in Tourakhom, have 93km on the counter for today, found a nice place to stay (Vilaphon Resort) at the lowest price we have paid since we left KL, and had a great dinner with (of course) a Beer Lao. Great, not because of the food as such, but because of the funny environment, the fun communication issues, the bad karaoke with lots of laughter.

Happy dinner

Back to the Vientiane part. We stayed 2 nights, mostly because we were going to get our China visa - but then found out we can also get this in Luang Prabang (or LP). We'd rather "wait" the required 4 days in LP, so we decided to stay only 2 nights. Vientiane itself was much, much better than we expected. Somehow we thought we had a bad impression about Vientiane from our visit in 1993, although even that if I read my diary notes from then is not even true (at all). We had travelled through Vientiane in 2011 as well, but then we did not even stay at all. Now we did take some time to explore the city, and to be honest, it was great! Beautiful heritage, fascinating temples, nice bars and restaurants, well done riverside drive, ... We did not really visit anything specific, just cycled around town, sit down for some drinks, have dinner. Opinion adjusted, 180 degrees U turn, I wouldn't mind living here!

The cultural part of our Vientiane visit

Still, despite the 2 nice days, it was good to be on the bicycle today, and get out of town into "the real Laos". Some more first impressions... The big roads are actually still rather small, we had one-lane bridges today on road 10, one of the main roads. Food seems more expensive than Thailand, even simple street food, and you have to be careful not to be ripped off. Dust, dust everywhere... Cows and goats on the roads. No flat snakes on the road? Housing along the road for most of our route today. Temples are more attractive than in Thailand, at our first temple stop we got to talk to a friendly monk - which has not happened at all in Thailand. Beer Lao seems to be always and everywhere, and by far the most available kind of drink. We're enjoying a new country, new experience, and are looking forward to the coming weeks!!!