Woooooowww!!! This. Was. A. Magnificent. Journey!!! While the ride through the Cardamom Mountains was pretty tough - more on that later - it was one of the best we've ever done. And as predicted: very little access to internet, even very little access to power - only stressing how perfectly remote this area was. So I'm 5 days behind in my writing now... Where to start?
Day 1: from Pursat to Pramaoy. A long day, 120km on the bike, one of the longest days we've ever done - and after 1 week cycling we're clearly not in perfect cycling condition. It was a fully, newly asphalted road all the way however, which we hadn't expected, and that definitely made it much more feasible. On Google Maps (even in Streetview!) it was still a dirt road, so mentally we were prepared for that. The first 28km to Phnom Kravanh was easy riding, on a very very slightly rolling road. We left very early, at 7am, nevertheless it was already quite warm and sweaty. After a little while, we started to see the hills in the distance, a promise of what was to come. It was very welcome, after days of totally pancake flat terrain, to have some different scenery. In Phnom Kravanh we stopped for a second breakfast. In the restaurant there was 1 other foreigner, although he looked very "Cambodianized"; he was Belgian!!! and lived already 14 years in Cambodia. We had a nice chat, and also found out there are indeed some guest houses in Phnom Kravanh but they're only indicated in Khmer. It would have made this a shorter day if we would have stayed here instead of Pursat...
Leaving Phnom Kravanh the road became a dirt road in bad condition; for a little while we were worried this would be the case for the next 90km, but a little further once we joined the N55 we found the newly asphalted road in perfect condition. About halfway we stopped at a river, signposted as a "tourist site", for a nice refreshing bath and to eat some snacks and fruit. By then, we were fully in the hills and the scenery was becoming wonderful. Around 70km we stopped for lunch - the only thing we found were instant noodles - a much needed stop as we were hot and hungry. The road continued with some easy up and downs, until around 80km were there was a serious climb; it was only a bit more than 2km climbing at a very feasible steepness, but super hot with the sun right in our face and no breeze at all. We finished in Pramaoy late afternoon, and with 120km had almost our longest day ever...
We checked in to a very shabby guest house, called Mithrpheap (or something like that), but it was all we needed - and at 5$ there is nothing much to complain about. We found a nice place with coffee (The Box, I think), but as it was late quenched our thirst with a cool coconut. Along the road - which goes all the way to Thailand - it was a busy village with lots of things going on, but once you moved away from the main road it was just a small, quiet village. We had dinner in a small cozy restaurant, the lade spoke very well English and had lived many years in Malaysia, just had fried rice and noodles plus a great dessert, and... an ice cold beer, the first in a week! We then went back to our room, exhausted, and slept early.
Day 2. This is already a long blog post, and we've only just got started... Keep reading! We didn't leave very early, a bit after 8am. After all, it was "only" around 47km today, and yes we would have some climbing to do but how bad can it be? Right. It can be very bad! OK, first this: it was fantastic! Nevertheless, it was super tough. The first 20km (a bit less I guess) were still fine. Rolling terrain, mediocre road (dirt road), very beautiful scenery and interesting villages with very friendly people, not too hot yet. But then... once we hit "the mountains" the road became extremely bad in parts, and the slopes... not steep but vertical. Some up to 15-20%, which is hard as such, but mad on a bad road in tropical conditions. In our 17.000km of cycling so far, I've almost never had to dismount my bike, but on this climb I had to get off several times. The first 2-3km climbing were just absolutely brutal, and probably took us at least half hour after which we absolutely needed to take a break. Oh. My. God. Wicked! Without any doubt, the most difficult part we've done. Ever. It's clear you just can't do this in the rainy season - unless you're suicidal.
Luckily, after this first part, the road became a bit more forgiving, less steep (but yes, up and up), in slightly better shape - most of the time. Early afternoon we almost arrived at the lake, end of the climb, and Ellen had a puncture! Her first one (!), after 17.000km; it was still the original inner tyre. It gave us a very good reason to stop for a while, and after replacing the tyre, eat a little. Once a the lake, we were able to jump on a "ferry" - see the picture. A nice little adventure, and it helped to cut more than 5km off our trip. There was supposed to be a second ferry after that, which would almost bring us to our destination, but that one didn't run unfortunately. So we continued, which meant we had another 15km or so to do, and an extra climb. Luckily, the road was much better, the gradient quite gentle, so it was not too bad at all, and in fact it was beautiful riding through impressive jungle. After 6,5 hours, of which a good 4 hours riding, we arrived at the Osoam Cardamom Community Center, and happily checked in for the next 2 - or 3? - days.
Day 3: Sleep late, lazy hanging around in Osoam, enjoying the cooler weather, reading, socializing, and then went for a short boat trip on the lake. It was so nice and pleasant there, that we decided to...
Day 4: do pretty much the same for another day! This is a little piece of heaven!
Day 5: at some point, we knew we had to leave and head into the mountains for another punishing day. From Osoam until Koh Kong, at the coast, there is nothing. No choice, the at least 108 heavy kms (well, it became 115km all together) had to be done in 1 day. According to my tracking, we climbed nearly 2000m on a distance of 115, of which half on dirt road. Yes, this has definitely been a day in our top list of tough days! Until 45km it went up and down, some of it quite steep. Then it descended for quite a long time, and at around 60km we arrived at the concrete road. Again up and down (but mostly down), and then just before 80km another heavy climb. The gods were with us: for this last heavy climb, again some of it well above 10%, it started raining a bit, which made it much cooler - very welcome! Apart from the last kms, riding into Koh Kong, there had been no shop, no restaurant, nothing after 30km. Luckily, we left well prepared, had food for the day (bread, bananas, pineapple, yoghurt, muesli, biscuits, dried fruit - enough for sure!), and more than 4l of water each - which we absolutely needed.
What a day! Definitely very challenging, yet at the same time, one of the most beautiful and rewarding days ever. Cycling through beautiful nature, jungle mostly and some grasslands, with the jungle concert in full swing, through fantastic mountain scenery. I even saw some gibbons in the distance at some point!!! Totally enjoyed every minute... We arrived in Koh Kong just before 6pm, having left Osoam at 7am, exhausted but happy and very satisfied. The day ended perfectly, with a spicy papaya salad and fried rice, with sugarcane juice, at the astronomic price of... 3$! And then, a nice room, good bed, perfect aircon, and baby sleep for almost 10 hours. Ahhhhh....
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| Village scenery on the way to Pramaoy, school kids in the back (focus...) who were so enthusiastically shouting their hello's |
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| Pursat to Pramaoy, perfect road with very little traffic (and very much sun) |
Day 1: from Pursat to Pramaoy. A long day, 120km on the bike, one of the longest days we've ever done - and after 1 week cycling we're clearly not in perfect cycling condition. It was a fully, newly asphalted road all the way however, which we hadn't expected, and that definitely made it much more feasible. On Google Maps (even in Streetview!) it was still a dirt road, so mentally we were prepared for that. The first 28km to Phnom Kravanh was easy riding, on a very very slightly rolling road. We left very early, at 7am, nevertheless it was already quite warm and sweaty. After a little while, we started to see the hills in the distance, a promise of what was to come. It was very welcome, after days of totally pancake flat terrain, to have some different scenery. In Phnom Kravanh we stopped for a second breakfast. In the restaurant there was 1 other foreigner, although he looked very "Cambodianized"; he was Belgian!!! and lived already 14 years in Cambodia. We had a nice chat, and also found out there are indeed some guest houses in Phnom Kravanh but they're only indicated in Khmer. It would have made this a shorter day if we would have stayed here instead of Pursat...
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| The itinerary to and through the Cardamom Mountains |
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| Absolutely beautiful scenery, very different from the flat lands the previous days |
Leaving Phnom Kravanh the road became a dirt road in bad condition; for a little while we were worried this would be the case for the next 90km, but a little further once we joined the N55 we found the newly asphalted road in perfect condition. About halfway we stopped at a river, signposted as a "tourist site", for a nice refreshing bath and to eat some snacks and fruit. By then, we were fully in the hills and the scenery was becoming wonderful. Around 70km we stopped for lunch - the only thing we found were instant noodles - a much needed stop as we were hot and hungry. The road continued with some easy up and downs, until around 80km were there was a serious climb; it was only a bit more than 2km climbing at a very feasible steepness, but super hot with the sun right in our face and no breeze at all. We finished in Pramaoy late afternoon, and with 120km had almost our longest day ever...
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| A welcome refreshing stop at the river |
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| And a welcome refreshing lunch & cold drink stop |
We checked in to a very shabby guest house, called Mithrpheap (or something like that), but it was all we needed - and at 5$ there is nothing much to complain about. We found a nice place with coffee (The Box, I think), but as it was late quenched our thirst with a cool coconut. Along the road - which goes all the way to Thailand - it was a busy village with lots of things going on, but once you moved away from the main road it was just a small, quiet village. We had dinner in a small cozy restaurant, the lade spoke very well English and had lived many years in Malaysia, just had fried rice and noodles plus a great dessert, and... an ice cold beer, the first in a week! We then went back to our room, exhausted, and slept early.
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| In Pramaoy, with a big happy smile |
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| Where the tarmac ends... |
Day 2. This is already a long blog post, and we've only just got started... Keep reading! We didn't leave very early, a bit after 8am. After all, it was "only" around 47km today, and yes we would have some climbing to do but how bad can it be? Right. It can be very bad! OK, first this: it was fantastic! Nevertheless, it was super tough. The first 20km (a bit less I guess) were still fine. Rolling terrain, mediocre road (dirt road), very beautiful scenery and interesting villages with very friendly people, not too hot yet. But then... once we hit "the mountains" the road became extremely bad in parts, and the slopes... not steep but vertical. Some up to 15-20%, which is hard as such, but mad on a bad road in tropical conditions. In our 17.000km of cycling so far, I've almost never had to dismount my bike, but on this climb I had to get off several times. The first 2-3km climbing were just absolutely brutal, and probably took us at least half hour after which we absolutely needed to take a break. Oh. My. God. Wicked! Without any doubt, the most difficult part we've done. Ever. It's clear you just can't do this in the rainy season - unless you're suicidal.
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| Still on the "easy" part of the road to Osoam |
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| Wonderful scenery, scenic villages |
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| What if it was rainy season? |
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| OK, this is jungle road. Extremely steep, slippery, and oh yes were was the "road" again? |
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| The cat and the shrine. Just so there is something else than road pictures... |
Luckily, after this first part, the road became a bit more forgiving, less steep (but yes, up and up), in slightly better shape - most of the time. Early afternoon we almost arrived at the lake, end of the climb, and Ellen had a puncture! Her first one (!), after 17.000km; it was still the original inner tyre. It gave us a very good reason to stop for a while, and after replacing the tyre, eat a little. Once a the lake, we were able to jump on a "ferry" - see the picture. A nice little adventure, and it helped to cut more than 5km off our trip. There was supposed to be a second ferry after that, which would almost bring us to our destination, but that one didn't run unfortunately. So we continued, which meant we had another 15km or so to do, and an extra climb. Luckily, the road was much better, the gradient quite gentle, so it was not too bad at all, and in fact it was beautiful riding through impressive jungle. After 6,5 hours, of which a good 4 hours riding, we arrived at the Osoam Cardamom Community Center, and happily checked in for the next 2 - or 3? - days.
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| More uphill, luckily on less horrible road |
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| Best to concentrate on the bridges |
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| The ferry! When we arrived the ferry had just left "the harbour", but the friendly lady turned back for us. |
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| The said "harbour" |
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| The end of the road, take 1 |
Day 3: Sleep late, lazy hanging around in Osoam, enjoying the cooler weather, reading, socializing, and then went for a short boat trip on the lake. It was so nice and pleasant there, that we decided to...
Day 4: do pretty much the same for another day! This is a little piece of heaven!
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| Osoam at sunset |
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| The lake, at the back of the guest house, beautiful, serene and perfect for a swim |
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| Small village on the lake, where people live from agriculture - mostly fruit. Bananas, papaya, pineapple, jack fruit, passion fruit, and also sugar cane, ginger, cardamom, etc |
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| Village house (peeking into the kitchen) |
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| Unfortunately, there is still a lot of slash and burn going on in this region. Jungle is sacrificed in a non-sustainable way for agriculture. A difficult discussion of course, because it would be much more difficult for these people living in very basic circumstances to do it differently... And in the end, 7 billion people need to be fed. It just shows how challenging it is and will be to come to a more sustainable planet... |
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| One of the important crops in this region, kampot pepper. |
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| Our bungalow in Osoam |
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| And the restaurant |
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| This is the ice delivery truck - no kidding. Under the plastic cover, big blocks of ice. |
Day 5: at some point, we knew we had to leave and head into the mountains for another punishing day. From Osoam until Koh Kong, at the coast, there is nothing. No choice, the at least 108 heavy kms (well, it became 115km all together) had to be done in 1 day. According to my tracking, we climbed nearly 2000m on a distance of 115, of which half on dirt road. Yes, this has definitely been a day in our top list of tough days! Until 45km it went up and down, some of it quite steep. Then it descended for quite a long time, and at around 60km we arrived at the concrete road. Again up and down (but mostly down), and then just before 80km another heavy climb. The gods were with us: for this last heavy climb, again some of it well above 10%, it started raining a bit, which made it much cooler - very welcome! Apart from the last kms, riding into Koh Kong, there had been no shop, no restaurant, nothing after 30km. Luckily, we left well prepared, had food for the day (bread, bananas, pineapple, yoghurt, muesli, biscuits, dried fruit - enough for sure!), and more than 4l of water each - which we absolutely needed.
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| From Osoam to Koh Kong, the road was definitely in a better condition than from Pramaoy |
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| Short break for sun screen - again |
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| Sweat and red dust = dirty legs |
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| The end of the road, take 2 |
What a day! Definitely very challenging, yet at the same time, one of the most beautiful and rewarding days ever. Cycling through beautiful nature, jungle mostly and some grasslands, with the jungle concert in full swing, through fantastic mountain scenery. I even saw some gibbons in the distance at some point!!! Totally enjoyed every minute... We arrived in Koh Kong just before 6pm, having left Osoam at 7am, exhausted but happy and very satisfied. The day ended perfectly, with a spicy papaya salad and fried rice, with sugarcane juice, at the astronomic price of... 3$! And then, a nice room, good bed, perfect aircon, and baby sleep for almost 10 hours. Ahhhhh....
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| One of the several dams - all built by the Chinese |
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| After 60km the road became a concrete road, much easier to ride on; and we were treated to some rain on our climb |
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| The end of the road, take 3 |
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| Arrival in Koh Kong - almost |